If you’re a Rolex collector, you’ve probably seen the Onyx dial and stopped in awe of its beauty. It’s one of the brand’s rarest and most luxurious natural stone dials, and we can totally see why. Few watch dials are as instantly recognisable or as elusive as the Rolex onyx dial.
As the name suggests, it’s actually made from genuine black onyx instead of just painted or lacquered metal. Plus, it has a deep, mirror-like finish, without the sunburst effects or textured patterns you’d see in traditional Rolex watches.
The Rolex onyx dial came out in the 70s alongside other luxurious materials like lapis lazuli, malachite, tiger’s eye, and jasper. You can find this dial on precious metal models like the Day-Date and a few Datejust references as well. If you’re interested in learning more about the Rolex onyx dial before you buy a watch that features one, you’re at the right place.
A Rolex onyx dial is exactly what it sounds like: a dial made from natural onyx. That’s right, Rolex uses ultra-thin slices of real onyx and polishes it until it gets the deep, shiny black finish we know and love. This onyx dial was released alongside in a collection with hardstone dials, each one made from a real piece of stone.
But wait, what is onyx in the first place? It’s a variety of chalcedony, and the good news is, Rolex uses the darkest and most uniform version of it. It’s so black that it can sometimes seem like it’s even absorbing the light around it, making it feel so hypnotising yet minimalist.
The artistry that goes into this dial is what makes it so special. It’s extremely hard to create because the onyx needs to be cut thin and formed exactly right. Then, they also have to attach it without breaking the delicate part.
Even Rolex has said that this process has a high failure rate, which is why these dials can be so costly and valued by collectors. Even more, since it all comes from natural stone, you’ll notice that each onyx dial has minor differences in its structure, veining, inclusions, and internal patterning. Every Rolex onyx dial is unique in its own way.
The Rolex onyx dial history is just as rich as its looks. Rolex first created hardstone dials for their watches in the 1970s, but the style became more popular in the 80s, especially once they added them to classic models like the Datejust and Day-Date. In fact, onyx became one of the most recognisable dials for these models.
By this point, Rolex had already been experimenting with materials beyond traditional lacquer and metals for its watches – stone was the natural next step. It was a way for Rolex to make its dress watches even more decorative and exclusive. This was also the “natural” era of Rolex, where they released watches with wood dials and other exotic materials.
The late 1970s and 1980s were the peak years for these dials, especially for collectors and buyers who were looking for something unusual and high-end. Dealers could sometimes order stone dials on request for Day-Date and Datejust models, and the 1978 introduction of the quickset date function did not end that trend. Onyx was especially appealing because it looked so clean and graphic, with some versions stripped of indices for an even more sculptural effect.
However, Rolex still didn’t boost the production numbers for this type of dial, mainly because it’s so difficult to make. It’s even more vulnerable to chipping or cracking during the finishing stage. Plus, since every piece of onyx is unique, it’s hard to find a piece that closely remembers the rest of the collection.
That’s why Rolex kept these dials limited to certain models and configurations, which made them rare even when they were in production.
Nowadays, Rolex rarely makes onyx dials, especially since they have become more conservative in their mainstream lines. Most modern Rolex watches are made from ceramic or metal. The onyx dial still appears on current Day-Date references, so it’s not impossible to find one.
When Rolex was still producing onyx dial, they only released them as part of their dress watch lineups. The Day-Date is one of the more common examples of an onyx dial watch, but it’s also available on a few references of the Datejust. Still, this dial was never a mass-market feature, which is why it’s more of a collector’s item.
Here are the Rolex models that have an onyx dial.
The Day-Date watch is easily the most popular Rolex model to feature an onyx dial. It’s most famously paired with a yellow gold body as the deep black stone creates the perfect contrast against the President bracelet and fluted bezel.
The Day-Date is already one of the most sought-after dress watches by Rolex, but the onyx takes it up a notch with its formal and exclusive look. You can also get the Rolex Day-Date onyx dial in white gold, and more rarely, you may find it in platinum or Everose. However, it’s pretty tricky to find a Day-Date that ticks all these boxes.
The Rolex Day-Date Onyx Arabic Dial is one of the rarest watches by the brand. The reason? It has two incredibly rare features at once: the natural onyx stone face and the special Arabic numerals. Checking both these boxes in one watch is hard to find these days.
Of course, the Rolex onyx Arabic dial is most popular in the Middle East, where its style has a strong collector appeal. Because of this regional demand, this watch is even more expensive across the world. As a collector, you can expect to compete with many others to get your hands on a watch like this.
While certain Datejust references did have the onyx dial, they’re not as common. Still, if you’re a dedicated collector, you may try your luck. You’ll most likely find it in precious-metal casings rather than stainless steel.
In all honesty, the Rolex onyx dial Datejust is a little restrained when compared with the Day-Date, simply because it doesn’t match the Day-Date’s full prestige package. The Day-Date has the President bracelet, day display, and ceremonial presence, all of which come together to complement the onyx dial beautifully.
Don’t get us wrong: the Datejust onyx dial is also breathtaking in its own way. It’s easier to wear on a daily basis – perfect for collectors who want a more minimalistic take on the onyx dial.
Yes, Rolex did make a genuine factory onyx dial for the Submariner in the early 1990s, specifically for the solid 18k yellow gold Submariner Date reference 16618. However, finding one nowadays is incredibly tricky, which is why you’ll find even the most dedicated collectors asking this question online.
If you really want one and can’t find it online, you may be able to get the Rolex Submariner onyx dial as an aftermarket modification. However, it will majorly affect the resale value of your Rolex.
If you’ve ever looked at the Rolex onyx dial price online, you’ve probably wondered with a dropped jaw what makes them so valuable.
The first reason is pretty obvious: they’re made from real onyx instead of a painted or stamped metal. Not only is the material hard to acquire, but it also gives a unique look to every single dial.
Then, there’s the difficult manufacturing which makes them so valuable. Onyx dials are hard to make because they have to be sliced into extremely thin wafers to fit the dial without being cracked or chipped in the process. The failure rate during this process is so high that Rolex refuses to raise the production numbers despite the demand.
This limited production is another reason why the onyx dials are so pricey. Stone dials were a signature feature from Rolex’s vintage, especially from the 1970s through the early 1990s. Even then, they never made as many of them as standard metal dials. Since the demand is so high and supply so little, every collector is rushing to get their hands on their very own Rolex onyx dial.
Other than that, you’ll notice that onyx dials typically don’t come in stainless steel or other affordable metal casings. They’re most popularly paired with 18 karat yellow gold, white gold, and platinum. That means you’re not just paying for the precious dial, but the pricey body, too.
Unique and rare dials will always have a high value in vintage Rolex markets, and stone dials in particular are a collectors’ favourite. They’re even rarer than most unique dials since each onyx dial has a different texture and look, even if the distinctions are minor.
Plus, onyx just has a clean and most understated look that other stone dials simply don’t have. That’s why it’s a favourite among buyers who don’t usually go for colourful, exotic dials. Simply put, onyx tends to hold value better than other configurations because it’s the perfect combination of rarity, aesthetics, and vintage Rolex collectability.
You can’t guarantee how much you’ll pay for a Rolex watch with an onyx dial. The price can vary a lot based on the reference you pick, its condition, and production year. Realistically, although the average costs range somewhere between £20,000 to £60,000 for an onyx dial, Rolex charges even more for any rare or diamond-set pieces.
Yes, those are a lot of zeroes! What makes these watches so expensive?
Well, the main contributor is authenticity and originality. Whether or not the watch is a factory original or comes with all its papers can have a huge difference on the bottom line. It can move a watch from “nice vintage Day-Date” money to serious collector money.
We did the research for you.
We found listings for the vintage Rolex Day-Date 18238 with an onyx dial as high as £30,000, while other full-set listings priced the reference around £56,000. However, the truly top-condition, cream-of-the-crop pieces can even go between £52,000 and £60,000.
Let’s break down the costs you can expect when buying an onyx dial from the vintage market:
If you’re trying to find the exact price of a Rolex onyx-dial, you need to specify the model, too. The reference matters because not every Rolex model with an onyx dial carries the same demand.
These benchmark prices apply to the Day-Date, especially in the 18-karat yellow gold Rolex onyx dial. If you want an even rarer or more specialised reference, that will definitely cost you a pretty penny. The market officially recognises them as original and scarce.
Other than that, the condition of the dial affects the price, too. If you like the ones with the correct gilt and printed details, the total will be much higher than damaged ones. If it comes with the box and all the papers, it will increase the value by about 10–15% in some cases.
Of course, it’s no secret that an original onyx dial will cost a lot more for the same reference with a conventional dial. Not only is it rare, but the natural-material craftsmanship and collector appeal are what make it so pricey.
That difference in price premium can be roughly several thousand dollars to well over £7,500, depending on reference and specification. We’ve even seen Rolex Day-Date onyx dials listed at about £44,000 versus roughly £35,000 for a standard version – a difference of around £9,000.
The Rolex black onyx dial is one of the finest design choices made by the brand, especially when you consider how pricey and difficult it is to make each price. With production numbers so low, it’s no surprise that the demand and value of Rolex onyx dials is higher than ever.
If you want to get your hands on one but at a more accessible price, you can find one preloved at Love Luxury.
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